Western Lake Districts Route - Stage V [Złocieniec - Szczecinek]

Stage V: Złocieniec - Czaplinek - Borne Sulinowo - Szczecinek [44 km]

The route is largely signposted and runs mainly on segregated cycle tracks and, partly, on gravel forest and local roads. In the section Złocieniec - Bobrowo there is a hardly passable fragment of a dirt road and in Stare Kaleńsko a cobblestone road (both fragments are about 1 km each). The section Nowy Czaplinek - Rakowo, which also has sections that are difficult to traverse (dirt), can be taken along the district road through Czarne Małe (leaving the route in Czaplinek or Łubowo). The detour is provided on our map.

In Złocieniec, our route crosses the Old Railway Route from Kołobrzeg (or Mielno) to Wałcz. We are going towards Czaplinek.

If you detour north in Nowe Kaleńsko, 4.4 km from the main route, along a local gravel and sand road (unmarked), you can reach the largest baroque palace in the Western Lake District - Siemczyno Palace. It was built in 1722-1726. The building houses Museum of the Pomeranian Region, while the farm buildings were converted to hotel and restaurants. Siemczyno Palace has joined the Cyclist-Friendly Places program, so in addition to attractions, you can also find accommodation, a restaurant, a place to store your bike and basic tools and parts for repairing it. Every year at the beginning of July, the Henryków Days in Siemczyno are held on the premises of the palace and farm complex. An interdisciplinary event promoting culture and traditions, including a historical and scientific conference, historical reconstructions and a concert of high culture music. Admission to the event is free.

In 2014, near Lake Krzemno, mysterious stone circles were discovered (2km south from the main route). So far, four circles and a kurgan from the 1st-3rd century AD, belonging to the East Germanic people of Goths, have been discovered. It can be expected that after the archeological excavations are completed, it will be a significant attraction in the vicinity of Czaplinek. Since 2022 all of Poland hears about a small town on the Drawa River. Less than 4 km from our route, on the first weekend of August the largest music festival in Poland and one of the largest in the world takes place. Pol'and'Rock Festival, formerly known as Woodstock Festival Poland, has regularly attracted more than 500.000 participants, reaching a stunning 750.000 people in 2019.

What can Czaplinek offer them? First of all, the mighty Drawskie Lake, the second deepest lake in Poland and the largest in the Drawsko Lake District. You can dive up to 79.7 meters there. The lake is surrounded by The Drawsko Landscape Park with the beautiful Valley of the Five Lakes, where the river Drawa has its source. Sławogród settlement is a Slavic open-air museum on the outskirts of the city. Demonstrations of old crafts and knights' duels are being held here. 6.5 km from the city lies Old Drawsko, with Drahim Castle, built by the Knights Hospitaller after the Templars left the area. From the 7th century there was a Slavic stronghold of the Drawian tribe here. In 1407, the castle was taken by the army of polish king Władysław Jagiełło and remained in the power of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth until 1688. The ruins of the medieval fortress of stone and brick walls have survived. Thanks to the new owner, life came back to the castle. In the courtyard, buildings in medieval style were erected, and an exhibition of white weapons was arranged. During the summer, "history encounters'' take place on weekends when knights and monks take over the fortress. Every year, at the beginning of July, the anniversary of Jagiełło's capture of the castle is celebrated.

Borne Sulinowo is known to all lovers of military history in Poland. The largest military rally in this part of Europe is held here - "Tracks and Horseshoes", but you don't have to like the sound of a tank engine to fall in love with Borne. This place does not resemble any city in Poland - and rightly so, because it was designed as a military town, first German, then Soviet. Until the 90s, it was not on the maps and only a few Poles knew about its existence. The entire population was made up of soldiers from the Soviet Union, of which only Sasha, the owner of a shop, remained. The former barracks are now mostly renovated and turned into regular blocks of flats. Blocks that are hidden in the trees - the whole town is situated in a forest and seems to be part of it. Unfortunately, not all buildings survived the period of degradation of the 1990s, when almost no one lived here after the Soviets left. Today Borne has around 5,000 inhabitants, some of whom have chosen it as a good (and cheap) place to spend their retirement years. The most impressive building in the city is the Officer's House from the 1930s, when the Germans were building a base for an armored training ground. There was an officer's casino in the part of the building on the lake side, and all official ceremonies were held in the magnificent auditorium. The property is in ruins, but has recently acquired a new owner. It is the last chance to save a place that could be the pride of the region. Another landmark is the "monument with the pepesha" (hand with a Soviet submachine gun) in the cemetery at the entrance to the city.

Even greater attractions are hidden in the former military training ground. Less than 15 kilometers of rugged, sandy road through the forest and we will get to Kłomino - an even more secret settlement. Contrary to Borne, it did not get a "second chance" and has already almost entirely disappeared. The last blocks of flats are successively demolished. What is left is an intriguing tank shooting range and even more mysterious nuclear missile silos. Visiting them is dangerous and we do not recommend doing it on your own. It is much better to visit the twin facility in Podborsko, located near the Old Railway Route. There is a museum there, and the bunker equipment has not been stolen. Going to Kłomino, we pass one of the largest moors in Europe. We owe their creation to crushing the ground by heavy vehicles for 60 years. Today, due to the lack of tanks, they need to be actively protected, which is why the "Diabelskie Pustacie'' Nature Reserve was established here. Heathers begin to bloom from around mid-August and can be admired from the observation tower.